A Journey to Lake Titicaca’s Isla del Sol – is it worth it?

Including Lake Titicaca in your Bolivia itinerary is a topic that often sparks varied opinions – and I’ve heard them all while traveling through Bolivia, the second country on our South America trip. “The journey is long. Is it worth it?”, “Lake Titicaca is too touristy.”, “What exactly is there to see?” were the most common questions. Despite these uncertainties, my decision to visit Isla del Sol was met with a resounding “yes.”

And yes, the journey was filled with wild adventures, but we were rewarded with the tranquility and hospitality of a remote and picturesque island that made us feel like time traveling.

3 reasons why Isla del Sol is worth it

1. Isla del Sol: A Tranquil Haven

Isla del Sol is nestled in the Bolivian side of Lake Titicaca, one of the highest navigable lakes in the world, situated at an elevation of approximately 3,812 meters (12,507 feet) above sea level. Therefore, the journey to Isla del Sol is a little wild and a bit exhausting.

Isla del Sol is also vehicle-free, which makes getting around a bit more difficult and slower compared to what we are used to. On the other hand, not hearing any motor noise at all for a couple of days is so calming. It’s hard to express what a difference this makes because we are not used to this at all. But on Isla del Sol, the clocks are ticking slower, and it feels so good to unwind, especially after exploring a hectic city like La Paz.

Therefore, deciding to stay for at least two days on Isla del Sol proved wise. The island’s remote charm and slow-paced lifestyle were exactly what we needed after experiencing the bustling energy of La Paz.

2. Ecolodge La Estancia: A Hidden Gem

Our accommodation Ecolodge La Estancia turned out to be a hidden gem on Isla del Sol, amplifying the tranquility and hospitality we were greeted upon arrival. Located in the Southern part of the Isla del Sol the ecolodge overlooks ancient Inca terraces, the deep blue waters of Lake Titicaca, and the Anden mountains are visible in the distance. The location itself, a bit off the main village Yumani makes this lodge a peaceful place to stay. But there is more that makes Ecolodge Estancia unique and worth staying at.

Rustic cabins with locally sourced design

Ecolodge Estancia runs 15 bungalow-like houses nestled on restored pre-Inca agricultural terraces at 4,010 meters above sea level. The lodge is located outside the community of La Estancia, very remote, overlooking Lake Titicaca.

We stayed in a spacious cottage (Double Queen Room) with a king bed and a private bathroom.

From our room and a little front patio with a bench, we had spectacular views of Lake Titicaca and the Andes Mountains.

All cabins were built by members of the community using noble materials with low environmental impact such as adobe. And the best part: Breakfast and dinner are included in your stay.

Healthy food made of homegrown ingredients

The lodge’s commitment to healthy food with homegrown ingredients truly expressed the culinary richness of the Andes. Not only is Ecolodge La Estancia nestled amid native plants and herbs. Breakfast and dinner are freshly prepared and included in your stay! Herbs to brew your mate tea are available throughout the day.

Sipping a cup of mate tea while overlooking Lake Titicaca makes each cup taste even better.

The inclusivity of freshly prepared meals, of course, added to the overall experience. You could tell everything was prepared fresh and with lots of love. For us it was the most delicious food we had on our trip so far – soul food the Bolivian way.

One reason why the food tasted so delicious is that Ecolodge La Estancia’s own garden is filled with native plants and trees. In the ecological greenhouse, they produce organic food and herbs used for the restaurant’s menu. The menu is 100% ecological: All food and beverages are natural, without additives or preservatives. If possible, food items are purchased from small local producers.

Eco-efficient architecture & sustainability efforts

Ecolodge La Estancia’s cottages are all built from local materials like adobe (mud bricks), straw and stone to ensure low environmental impact while maintaining Andean architectural traditions. This way, Ecolodge La Estancia coexists harmoniously within its surroundings.

Environmentally friendly elements such as black stone floors for example absorb heat while the solar system achieves pleasant temperatures in cottages and make sure guests get to enjoy the comfort of a hot shower.

Soap and shampoo produced with natural ingredients are provided in environmentally friendly big containers.

Furthermore, Ecolodge La Estancia strives to reduce plastic waste generated from bottled beverages. This is the reason why you’ll find a bottle of drinking water in your room as well as purified water jugs placed throughout the property to refill your bottle. In addition, the filter system allows the reuse of water in the lodge’s garden.

Socio-economic model

Ecolodge La Estancia’s goal isn’t only to satisfy their guests’ needs but also to serve their community. The lodge provides permanent and subcontracted employment opportunities for people of different communities.

The owners are also committed to fair and respectful treatment of pack animals (llamas and donkeys), which transport groceries, materials, and luggage to and from the lodge.

As a guest, you get the chance to connect with Aymara communities on the island. Read more under Things to do below.

3. Exploring Isla del Sol: An Unforgettable Adventure

From Ecolodge La Estancia, it’s easy to explore the southern part of Isla del Sol. Wandering around on foot reveals a unique blend of nature and local life – from donkeys carrying goods to spotting llamas grazing in the distance. The town center offered surprising views, making us feel like we were in a remote South American haven.

On Isla del Sol, over 80 ruins can be found sprawled across the rugged 70 sq km. All ruins are remnants of the Inca civilization that lived there in the 15th century AD. Today, approximately 800 indigenous families still live in small villages dispersed throughout the island, and you’ll get in contact with them when exploring the island on foot.

Check out my blog post 10 Things to do on Isla del Sol for details (coming soon).

Best time to travel to Lake Titicaca

April through October is known as the best time to travel to Lake Titicaca. You can expect less rain and clear skies. Most visitors travel to Lake Titicaca in July and August, so expect more crowds on buses, boats and accommodation booking fast.

I’d always recommend considering the shoulder season as a good time as well. We traveled to Bolivia in November and got lucky with mild temperatures and clear skies.

Getting to Isla del Sol from La Paz, Bolivia

Embarking on the journey from La Paz to Isla del Sol required a well-planned route, and I have added our itinerary for reference below.

How long does it take to get to Isla del Sol?

Traveling to Isla del Sol from La Paz is a day-long journey. It takes another day to return. Consider that the boat doesn’t leave immediately after you arrive by bus. You will need to wait in between, which gives you time for a break and lunch, which is nice but also adds time.

From La Paz, take the bus to Copacabana, located at the lakeshore of Titicaca. The bus ride takes 4 hours, including a 15-minute ferry transfer at San Pedro de Tiquina, where you need to get out of the bus and take a small speed boat to the other side while your bus gets carried to the other side.

The ferry ticket is 2 Bolivianos per person. On the other side, you board the bus again and continue your trip to Copacabana.

Various bus companies travel between La Paz and Copacabana from the main bus terminal in La Paz. I’d recommend buying your ticket in advance. We went with Vicuña Travel and bought our tickets online via TicketsBolivia.com.

From Copacabana you need to take the boat to Yumani in the south of Isla del Sol. We paid 30 Bolivianos per person one way, and the ride took 1.5 hours (longer than we had expected).

Arriving on Isla del Sol

From the small jetty, take the Inca Stairs uphill along the Fountain of the Inca (don’t drink this water),

It’s a 25-minute steep incline followed by another 20-minute walk until you reach Ecolodge La Estancia.

Donkeys will carry your luggage. Nonetheless, don’t underestimate the steep incline. Hiking at such a high altitude is much more strenuous than you think.

Our itinerary to Isla del Sol, Lake Titicaca

Arriving:

• 7:30 am – 11:30 am: Bus from La Paz to Copacabana
• 1:30 pm – 3 pm: Boat from Copacabana to Isla de Sol
• Walk to your accommodation: 30 min to 1 hour, depending on the location
• 4 pm: Arrival at Ecolodge La Estancia

Returning:

• 8 am: Breakfast at Ecolodge La Estancia
• 9 am: Leave Ecolodge La Estancia – your luggage might need to be ready earlier if you want it to be carried down by donkey.
• Walk to Yumani Port via Inca Stairs, and buy your boat ticket at the jetty
• 10:30 am – 12 pm: Boat from Isla de Sol to Copacabana
• 1:30 pm – 5:30 pm: Bus from Copacabana to La Paz

From La Paz we continued our trip to the South of Bolivia and took the night bus to Uyuni.

Is the journey to Lake Titicaca’s Isla del Sol worth it?

Traveling to Isla del Sol and staying at Ecolodge La Estancia was worth every moment. Plan for at least two nights; if you seek relaxation and exploration, consider extending your stay to three nights. Don’t underestimate the altitude and allow your body time to acclimate.

Planning a trip to Isla del Sol on Lake Titicaca? Check out my blog post covering 10 Things to do on Isla del Sol (coming soon).

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QUESTIONS & COMMENTS?

Have you been to Bolivia and traveled to Lake Titicaca? Did you find this article helpful, have suggestions, feedback, or recommendations? Leave me a comment and share this article with your friends!

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